Pamukkale - Turkey's Mystery

High above the fertile valley below sit two wonders - the world's largest natural travertine formations, formed 14,000 years ago, and the ancient Roman Holy City of Heirapolis, built as a luxury health resort for its healing thermal spas and pools. Pamukkale means Cotton Castle, as its cliffs pour out the deposits of white travertine for bathers to enjoy. Coming out of the earth from 3000 feet below, the water loses its carbon dioxide and heat, and washes warm calcium-rich water down over the cliffs to make a white wonderland (similar to the much smaller Mammoth in Yellowstone). People in ancient times came "on their last leg", hoping for miracles, thus the large cemetery downhill! It didn't always work.
Lunch this afternoon and a stroll through the little town of Buldan, known for its textiles made from Turkish cotton (major export). Our more modest hotel in the rural section of town boasts its own 2 thermal pools which were quite a welcome sight this later after the extensive walking o
the past few days. Tonight's entertainment - a belly dancer.
Pix: Scenes of Pamukkale

Biblical and Archeological History

Our optional tour today took us from Izmir to the ancient ruins of Pergamum, one of the most important cities of the Hellenic era. It was referred to as " the seat of the Devil" by St. John in the first millenium, then willed to the Romans. A full day of hiking followed a cable car ride up to the Akropolis, high atop the mountain overlooking present day Bergama. One of the first libraries, it housed 200,000 books, following the invention of parchment. Next came a hike to the Temple of Isis (Greek), and finally, the Asklepion, the spiritual and medical center (sanatorium). We walked a real Roman road! 
Pix: Scenes around Pergamum

Living well in Izmir

We have been treated to  a 3 night stay in the luxurious Hilton Hotel, overlooking the Bay of Izmir. This city, third largest in Turkey, at 7 million, is very cosmopolitan and, while Istanbul is conservative, Izmir is called the "big easy" of the country, people enjoying life and an upscale lifestyle overlooking the bay. After a bus tour through the city and a brief walk through a fashionable suburb we were turned loose to explore the huge Farmers's Market - what colors and aromas! Everything organic, from fruits, vegetables, eggs, cheese, olives, nuts, breads and fresh fish to clothing, shoes, and kitchenwares.
A free afternoon found some of us at a neighborhood ice cream cafe for an al fresco lunch and attempt to get on our wifis. Lots of walking the city and along the waterfront today and again tonight. My "puppies" are tired!
Pix: baklava at the market; walking the seaside promenade; historic clock tower at night.

From Troy to Izmir

Troy is not a mythical city/state, as told in Homer's Illiad. It was authenticated in the 20th century and we visited it yesterday, despite the fake Trojen horse out front! A city built 3,000 years ago, it was built and rebuilt in layers by the prevailing dynasties from the bronze age on. We then rolled along through grazing farmland, olive trees aplenty, into mountains and along the edge of the Agean till we reached the mountain town for our home hosted lunch. No English/Turkish spoken except for the good graces of the 19 year old daughter  :-) By early evening we arrived at our new home for the next 3 nights - Izmir. Life is good! My 14th floor room looks over the Bay of Izmir.
Pix: ruins of the religious center at Troy; lunch with friends and our hostess; sunset on the Bay of Izmir

From Europe to Asia via the Dardenelles

Though Ankara is the capitol city of Turkey the financial epicenter is Istanbul, as demonstrated by the glass high rises woven in among the antiquities. Our guide describes  it as " a separate country within the boundaries of Turkey". Our last "must see" was the Spice Market this morning before boarding our luxury coach, our "home away from home" for the next two weeks. Heading along farmland on the European coastline we headed to the Dardenelle Strait, where we visited the Gallipoli Cemetery, site of the bloody battle between the Allies (mostly Australian and NZ soldiers) and the Turks during W.W.I.  A tragic waste of young men on both sides! Crossing the Dardenelles by ferry to the Asian side, we are now in the lovely university city of Canakkale, our modern hotel rooms facing the waterfront. Salih, our trip leader, is excellent - a fountain of knowledge, comedian, AND a seasoned organizer, thinking of every detail. It makes our group of 35 seem like a family.
Pix: Spice Market; Gallipoli Cemetery, Crossing the Dardenelles

East Meets West Tour

This morning brought out the umbrellas as we queued up for a visit to the 19th century Dolmabahce Palace, built by the last of the sultons, who, later had to flee the palace when WW1 ended the era of monarchies. Filled with crystal furniture, It sports a four and a half ton, 750 light crystal chandelier.  (No indoor pix allowed). Weather cleared  to sunny skies for our  fresh bream fish lunch at a restaurant sitting on and overlooking the Bosporus a sailboat regatta entertaining us. This afternoon we boarded our private boat for a liesurely trip down the Bosporus, the huge waterway that divides the European and Asian sides of Istanbul.
Pix: Hagia Sophia; Grand Bazaar, Riding the Bosporus.

It's Istanbul, Not Constantinople!

The beginning of this journey to Turkey found our Grand Circle Travels group promptly submerged in the culture of a city of 17 million people. After orientation, a good night's sleep, and a hearty breakfast at our lovely hotel to shake off the jet lag, we had a marathon first day of amazing sights with our trip leader, Salih. Istanbul reminds us that Turkey will be a "walking history lesson". A beautiful day to visit the Blue Mosque, built in the 1600's, the Hagia Sophia, once a mosque and the largest Christian church in the world (now a museum), and Topkapi, palace to the 25 Muslim sultan over 600 years through the Ottoman, Greek, Roman, etc...eras. History has a whole new meaning here! Off to the Grand Bazaar this afternoon, a labarynth of 4000 shops! And finally, we enjoyed our Welcome dinner  - authentic Turkish menu, in a bustling Saturday night neighborhood. Turkey is the only city in the world that claims two continents - 3% in Europe and 97% in aAsia Minor. But I swear that they all live in Istanbul and we saw them today!